Made it to Compostelo de Santiago today with my best friend and brother. The day was very special and was made more special when our beautiful wives, Kristine and Beth were at the Cathedral to meet us. I will provide more details later. Right now I’m headed for a tub in the 5 star hotel Paradores de Santiago to soak my feet and body!
Before I start with today’s journey of 12.8 miles from Caldas de Reis to Padron, our last night before we reach the hallowed town of Santiago, I must share with you a little humor from last night.
We carry very little in our packs, trying to limit them to 13-15lbs with water. This requires packing very few clothes for the pilgrimage. We typically try to wash clothes every night by hand or find a laundromat. Last night we found a small laundromat and washed and dried our clothes. I captured a picture of Dave beautifully folding his clothes, it would make a 5 star laundry be proud. After his masterful folding he then proceeded to crush them into a compression sack that takes an 18″ sack and reduces it to 6″. Thus allowing larger amounts of clothes and supplies to fit into your pack. I felt bad for my buddy who went to great work folding his clothes. I laughed my ass off. The locals in the laundry didn’t get it but it was a Camino story I will remember.
The Christian religion has left its stamp all over Portugal and Spain for centuries. This continues as we made our way out of Caldas. You often see statues of christ and the crucifix that have been there for centuries. We captured a weathered and worn statue in the yard of a typical architecture for a home in rural Spain.
We had very little payment today. We spent the majority of our time walking on dirt paths through woods, dense forest, and across swollen creeks. This area has received the rain Dave and I experienced over the last 3 days. Today was foggy, with very little rain.
This pic above shows one of many tributes pilgrams have left for other pilgrams to see. It’s probably not a good sign when you find someone’s shoes. it’s likely they have experienced severe foot issues and have given up on the shoes they were wearing. This is not uncommon. We often see pilgrams walking very slowly in their backup shoes or sandals trying to get to the next town and determine what is next. Dave and I have done well. Sore, blistered, or damaged feet can quickly end your Camino journey.
Another pilgram statue greets us in Padron, our final night before we walk the final 15 or so miles to the Cathedral of Santiago! Heading out for dinner, more Spanish wine, and then crash for an early wake up. Buen Camino
We left the city of Pontevedra in light rain. A beautiful church next to the city sign escorted out of the city and to the Camino way that consisted primarily of paved roads through small, very old villages, along the way. The WAY welcomed my best Amigo by the graffiti on the wall as we ascended another steep climb out of the little village. I tried to crop the little halo over Dave’s name, as the halo certainly did not fit, but my editing skills didn’t work.
After several miles in intermittent rain the pavement gave way to beautiful countryside. Our Way took us through rolling hills, vineyards, and fields of wild flowers. Despite the heavy rain we loved the peacefulness of the countryside.
We did interrupt our walk for a very important facetime with Dave’s lovely wife Beth. Beth’s birthday is today! Happy birthday!
Our journey today started around 7am with a pilgrim’s breakfast and ended at 2pm in Caldas de Reis, 14.8 miles. Another great day on the Camino de Portuguese. We’re within 50 km, 30miles, to our final destination of Santiago.
Doing our laundry and getting ready for another day on the Way!
let me start today by sharing a great evening before. we rented a very small apartment in Redondela just above the city center and right on the Camino path. we went to the local market and bought some cheese, sausage and crackers and paired it with a great wine from the Douro region of Spain.
It was a pleasant evening on our balcony where we enjoyed our apps and dried our laundry
We finished the night at the local pub and some Spanish football. We called it an early night as we knew the next day was forecasted to have heavy rain and 28mph winds.
Today was 12.3miles and was a fairly typical Camino day where our journey took us through small villages that were very old . These villages are fascinating with their very narrow streets, Roman bridges and quaint architecture.
A local was recovering mussels from the river bed as we made our way through the small village of Arcade.
The small villages gave way to a steep climb to the Camino way path high above the villages. This required a very steep climb and eventually we leveled out in a canopy of beautiful forest and stone paths.
This was a bit treacherous as heavy rain had started. The canopy provided a little protection from the heavy rain. It rained heavy for the last 5 miles of our walk today.
This is an example of tributes we see along the way. Everyone has their reasons for walking the Camino. Many of the reasons are posted on these boards along the Camino way. Buen Camino.
We had an easier day today, only walking 10.5 miles from Vigo to Redondela. We spent the first hour or so walking through Vigo. The change in the demographics as we walked was evident. We left an affluent area and eventually walked through a lower socioeconomic area of town. One thing was clear, regardless of your economic status Saturday morning was the time visit your local Cafe and bar. They were bustling with locals by 9 am. We climbed out of the beautiful Port town of Vigo and traversed through small towns. Nearly all of this time was concrete and sidewalk.
We stopped at a small Cafe about 4 miles out and had breakfast of croissant and coffee. We were delayed leaving for 30 minutes as the sky opened up and heavy rain fell. Once the rain slowed we put on the rain gear3and headed out. Our next several miles were more traditional Camino paths of dirt roads, wet and muddy from the rain.
This shot of the Camino athletes was taken above the town of Redondela, our resting spot for tonight. Another successful day on the Camino. Time is moving fast. This is an awesome experience with my best Amigo!
We left Baiona at sun up walking down very narrow cobblestone alleys and worked our way back to the sea where we started our way through many small villages. A pilgrim’s statue met us as we exited Baiona and started north.
Old Roman bridges made from stones still stand in many regions of Spain. We were fortunate enough to come across one.
After leaving a number of smaller villages we spent a fair amount of time today on cement roads and sidewalks heading to Vigo. Vigo is a town of 300 000, definitely the largest we will experience on this Camino Way.
Today was a little rough. We’ve had outstanding weather; 60 -75 and sunshine. Today the skies let loose about 6 miles from our destination. Of course being the well prepared Camino athletes we are we doned our rain gear and kept walking.
It’s important to keep a positive attitude and to persevere regardless of what the Camino throws at you.
tough day. blog tomorrow .
Next day and full disclosure. The walk from A Guarda to Baiona was 20 miles. All went. The reason I didn’t blog can be blog last night can be blamed on a great bottle of Rioja wine and watching a Spanish/German soccer match in a bar with the locals.
Excellent vino
Baiona is known as a fishing village. We stated our walk as the sun came up and this statue and pic of the man fishing represented the feel of this beautiful coastal fishing village. The fish was awesome.
Our “Way”took us on crushed gravel by the sea, dirt roads through quaint villages and wooded paths. We also trekked next to a busy highway. All this to get us to a pilgrim’s breakfast in a small outdoor Cafe overlooking the ocean. A typical Spanish breakfast may include eggs with ham and French fries. It was awesome and fueled the next leg of our journey.
Our final legs of the 20 miles included interesting sites of Buhda…how ironic to see it in the land of a million catholic churches. And we’ve seen a bunch of them as well. They are beautiful and old structures.
Our journey also took us to rural areas by the sea where we saw livestock and crops growing. I don’t know of any cows in the US that have this view!
As I said the day ended in Baiona by the sea with an awesome dinner of local fish, vino, and even some Jack Daniels while watching Spanish football ⚽️.
We started our 21 mile hike from Viana do Castelo, a beautiful coastal town. We stayed in an old guesthouse that was beautiful and located in the city’s incredible town plaza. Unbeknownst to us they were having a concert in the town plaza that lasted until 2am. All the ear plugs in the world couldn’t prevent us from the pounding of the concert. We got up at 6am after the dogs decided we should not sleep. We loved to village of Viana and were just at the wrong place at the wrong time. Wonderful owner from Lebanon who made reservations for us at one of his favorite restaurants. It was fabulous and paired outstanding with a Portuguese red wine from the Douro region of Portugal. I was so impressed I sent a case to my parents and asked them to enjoy but save a couple for me.
We made our way out of Viana do Castelo and walked the paths through beautiful small villages, wine country, and forest with babbling brooks ( not my best friend DaveBrooks babbling). We left the cliffs above the Atlantic and made our way to the sea where we trekked along the beautiful seaside. Our journey by the sea ended and we started our climb to the next village. We knew it would not be an easy climb up dirt paths and creek beds. A horse grazing along the ocean was a tempting alternative. We made it to the next town over the mountain where we caught a ferry to Spain. Our days in Portugal were done. We celebrated no injuries, arrest, or major problems. Our water taxi was a crazy ride but we arrived in Spain safe. After another 3 miles up tough hills we arrived in A Guarda. We are staying in a 16 century convent that was turned into a hotel in 1984. It’s beautiful.
We met some interesting people today Walking the Camino . A German design engineer from Porche who was burned out with his job, a PHD graduate who finished her PHD 7 years along and has spent the last 7 years traveling the world trying to find herself. And a 50 year old man who suffered from bi polar disorder and had left his high stress financial job to start his business helping those like him. Everyone has their story and the Camino seems to give them an avenue to spill their challenges and life stories with total strangers. Dave and I just like to have fun. Tonight we’re being smart and going to bed early after a nice dinner of fish and local wine by the docks of A Guarda. Bom Camino.
The Camino pilgrimage to Santiago has different meaning to each individual. Whether it’s a spiritual journey or a journey to escape from the real world. Each person has their story as to why they are on the Camino. I’ve heard many heartbreaking stories about poor health, trying to recover from abuse. What the reason the coveted prize is the Camino passport stamped by businesses, churches, and friends of the Camino along the way. This photo shows start of our Camino passport. once reach Santiago they will validate our journey by the stamps and issue us an official certificate of Walking the Camino .
We left Esposende by 7am after a coffee at a café and headed out to Viana do Castelo, 18 miles away. The town was decorated in religious symbols . We traversed a number of small villages and made a climb from the beautiful coast of the Atlantic to rural villages of Portugal. Of course there were a number of churches. We met a number of pilgrams including 2 Germans that had stories as to why they were on the Camino. One included a Porche design engineer from Stuttgart. Kristine would be proud as she is a big Porche fan. The villages gave way to beautiful countryside and a trek through the forest. Met a Canadian on the leg and walked with him to our destination. The scenery was beautiful and the day ended at our guest house in Viana do Castelo. I screwed up the reservation so Dave and I almost had to sleep in the same bed. We told the owner we didn’t like that idea so he arrangements to give us a room with 2 beds. Fantastic Lebanese gentlemen that also made reservations for us at his favorite restaurant. It was great food and even better wine. Another great day on the Camino with my best friend and brother Dave.
We left Porto at 6am with a steep climb out of the city under a Cresent moon.
We made our way through Porto and to Vila de Conde where we had a much needed breakfast and made our way to the beach where we started our first day of Walking the Camino. It took a while to find the Camino way signs in Vila de Conde but we succeeded and started the 17.6 trek to our next overnight at Esposende.
The weather was great and the walking was scenic along the Atlantic Ocean. We saw a number of pilgrams sun burned and walking to Santiago.
We finished our day in Esposende with a beautiful sunset and a few local beers and and a few more Jack Daniels. It’s awesome getting to experience this with my Best friend.
Attached is the video of our journey.
Camino de Portuguese